Drop-front Gowns
Those of you who’ve seen me at my various workshops know exactly how these gowns work, those who haven’t are in for a treat as we look at the secrets of one of the most popular styles from the early Regency period. This style goes by lots of names: Apron-front, Drop-front, Placket-front, Stomacher-front. It’s all the same kind of dress, though. It was extremely popular from just before the turn of the century up through about 1812-1813. I would expect countrified (or poor) heroines to still be wearing it during at least the first half of the actual Regency, if not beyond (especially considering that the lower classes are still in 18th century fashions at the end of the Regency).
The style was extremely popular for day gowns, and most of the extant examples I’ve seen are made out of muslin or calico, with either tambour work (the muslin examples), or simple self-fabric trim (the calico examples). There are, however, examples of evening gowns made in this style in the collections of the Kyoto Costume Institute and the Victorian and Albert’s collection.
Caption for collage: Extant gown, c. 1808. White cotton with red polka dots. Gathered self-fabric trim inset at hem. Clockwise from the top right: Full gown, face front; Close up of the bodice with the bib down (note the drawstring across what would be the top of the bib); Detail of the back, showing the ties (incorrectly tied); Detail of the hem: Side view of the full gown.
The style was extremely popular for day gowns, and most of the extant examples I’ve seen are made out of muslin or calico, with either tambour work (the muslin examples), or simple self-fabric trim (the calico examples). There are, however, examples of evening gowns made in this style in the collections of the Kyoto Costume Institute and the Victorian and Albert’s collection.
Caption for collage: Extant gown, c. 1808. White cotton with red polka dots. Gathered self-fabric trim inset at hem. Clockwise from the top right: Full gown, face front; Close up of the bodice with the bib down (note the drawstring across what would be the top of the bib); Detail of the back, showing the ties (incorrectly tied); Detail of the hem: Side view of the full gown.
Gown c. 1810
Let’s walk you through how the dress went on. They are deceptively simple, though they look like an octopus:
1) Slip it on over the head (stepping into something when wearing a shift and petticoat is a real pain).
2) Put your arms into the sleeves (which, depending on how tight/long they are, might require help; mine do).
3) If it has ties attached to the back of the dress at the waist (some do, some don’t), pull them forward and tie them just under the breasts to help hold the dress in place.
4) Take the side flaps of the bodice and cross them over the chest, pinning them (yes, with tiny brass straight pins) in place.
5) Take the long ties that are attached to the front of the gown and wrap them around the back (all the extant examples I’ve seen have little belt loops on the back of the dress to help hold these in place). Bring them around and tie them off in front. Tuck the dangling ends down the front of the skirt, inside (I’m “assuming” these went inside as I don’t see them in paintings).
6) Fold the bib up so it covers the chest and either pin it in place, hook it, or button it, depending on how the dress is made.
For a really good look at a recreation from a pattern based on an extant gown check out the Koshka’s pages for “My Drop-Front Regency Dress”. Her site shows lots of pictures of gown, the making of the gown, and details of how it works. I highly recommend back-tracking and looking at her other Regency pages, too. She has a great corset recreation (based on an extant example she owns, lucky girl!).
1) Slip it on over the head (stepping into something when wearing a shift and petticoat is a real pain).
2) Put your arms into the sleeves (which, depending on how tight/long they are, might require help; mine do).
3) If it has ties attached to the back of the dress at the waist (some do, some don’t), pull them forward and tie them just under the breasts to help hold the dress in place.
4) Take the side flaps of the bodice and cross them over the chest, pinning them (yes, with tiny brass straight pins) in place.
5) Take the long ties that are attached to the front of the gown and wrap them around the back (all the extant examples I’ve seen have little belt loops on the back of the dress to help hold these in place). Bring them around and tie them off in front. Tuck the dangling ends down the front of the skirt, inside (I’m “assuming” these went inside as I don’t see them in paintings).
6) Fold the bib up so it covers the chest and either pin it in place, hook it, or button it, depending on how the dress is made.
For a really good look at a recreation from a pattern based on an extant gown check out the Koshka’s pages for “My Drop-Front Regency Dress”. Her site shows lots of pictures of gown, the making of the gown, and details of how it works. I highly recommend back-tracking and looking at her other Regency pages, too. She has a great corset recreation (based on an extant example she owns, lucky girl!).